This story is from Texas Monthly’s archives. We have left the text as it was originally published to maintain a clear historical record. Read more here about our archive digitization project. Compared with San Antonio, other Texas cities just don’t measure up, no matter how many tall, ugly, shoe-boxlike bank buildings or trapezoidal oil-company headquarters dot their skylines. San Antonio is something different, standing above the others, on its own rung among Texas civic hierarchies. The compulsive play that has become the acceptable alternative to compulsive work in Dallas and Houston is absent here. San Antonio is a sensual, sexual city of easy movements, serpentine, even slithery. There is nothing steely about it. Nothing grates or rasps. Nothing jars. It has survived war, siege, occupation,…
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